We see no shortage of gang fights and shady dealings on TV shows like Peaky Blinders or Hong Kong TVB dramas. But the reality of gangs is not a faraway notion even to a relatively safe and developed country like ours.
Tours are a dime a dozen, but Triad Trails is the first walking tour led by former members of actual secret societies in Singapore. Take the time to delve deeper into an indelible part of our past and uncover secrets that these photogenic spots seemingly have no traces of today.
From regaling narratives of the origins of gangs to personal anecdotes, here’s what you can expect on the tour:
The Triad Trails tour is 2-hours long and you’ll be on your feet most of the time so be sure to out on good footwear. Bring along a foldable umbrella and lather up on sunscreen as most of the route isn’t sheltered as well. As with any outdoor walks in Singapore, it’s always a good idea to bring along a portable fan, a bottle of water, and some snacks.
Most of all, sure to pay attention along the way as there are fun mini-prizes to be won. Photography is allowed and selfies are, in fact, encouraged.
Triad Trails is organised by Architects of Life, a social enterprise that supports ex-offenders, and the Singapore Tourism Board.
Throughout the tour, look forward to trawling through a warren of streets and passing by notable monuments replete with rich tales of yesteryears. There will be several pit stops at iconic locations in Singapore including Ann Siang Hill, Tian Hock Kiang Temple, and Pagoda Street. We were guided by Mr Alvin Chiong, 1 of the 3 guides who might lead the tour.
Image credit: Kezia Tan
Tanjong Pagar Road was where our journey began. We all know Tanjong Pagar – the area with great Korean and Japanese food from the ever-crowded Hamburg Steak Keisuke to the recently viral Sagye Korean Pot Rice and BBQ.
Seng Wong Beo Temple.
Image credit: Roots.sg
What most of us might not be privy to, is the fact that there’s a temple that conducts ghost marriages right around the corner. It’s called Seng Wong Beo Temple. One of Singapore’s oldest bus stops sits inconspicuously along this road too – you just need to know where to look.
As Alvin brought us on the jaunt down oh-so-familiar streets, he revelled in tales from the yesteryears, by pointing out the darker secrets of the streets and buildings, and giving insights into what gangs were like back in the day.
A TIL: China Street used to be teeming with gambling dens in the mid 20th century, and was the headquarters of the largest gang in Singapore at that time with a whopping 18,000 members.
Alvin also revealed the reason he joined a secret society, as well as how he dabbled in unhealthy habits like smoking and marijuana at a young age.
He recalled the way gangs “disturbed” those who couldn’t pay back their debts, even hashing out his own experience of following his leader to do so. If people couldn’t pay their dues, they would then have to work and provide free labour services for the gang’s boss.
Pagoda Street is another unassuming spot Alvin stopped by. It may look like a run-of-the-mill street in Chinatown with gift shops and hipster bars, but we were surprised to hear that it actually used to be a vape zone, with opium dens lining the streets.
Keep your ears peeled for the story on unit no. 34 – one of the former opium dens with private rooms that attracted the rich.
When the man reaches for his stash of pictures, that’s when you know you’re getting a deeper dive into history than your Social Studies textbooks. Ask Alvin any question about these dispirited dens and he’ll have an answer.
How much are the opium pipes worth? Up to $2,000 back in the day – if you have it in the right conditions. Needless to say, these days, meddling with opium will get you a “Go Directly To Jail” card and we’re not talking about Monopoly.
Fun fact: Opium is still used as painkillers in hospitals today.
Enter the Thian Hock Keng temple during the walking tour.
Image credit: Roots.sg
In the 19th Century, many folks arrived in Singapore right on the shores of the Thian Hock Keng temple. Last time no Changi Airport hor.
Believe it or not, before land reclamation, the beach used to be right at the doorstep of this temple. The immigrants from Fujian province in China would pray to the Goddess of the Seas to thank her for helping them arrive safely here.
Image credit: Kezia Tan
Like any good ol’ walking tour through Chinatown, you’ll stop by some of the many murals that adorn the shophouses for a little 0.5x selfie to commemorate your visit. Alvin also has some photographs from the past if you’re curious to see what the very same streets used to look like.
Having reached the end of the walking tour segment, Alvin shared that “not all gangsters are bad people”. He took steps to reform himself – from having the discipline to wake up early to go to work at the other end of the island, to volunteering at prisons and offering religious counselling to help other ex-offenders move on from their past.
It was very heartwarming to hear about Alvin’s experience – I can’t imagine the initial rejection and stigma he must have faced, having to try integrating back into society despite his criminal past. However, he shared that all it takes is persistence to prove yourself to others and regain their trust again.
Depending on which tour package you sign up for, there may be a meal included at Genius Central, a cafe tucked away in Amoy Street. During the meal, you are free to ask any question you’d like – the only exception being the names of the guides’ former gangs.
Secret societies have been in Singapore since as early as 1824, according to the earliest historical records available. Today, they are way less prevalent but are not 100% gone.
The police have taken a zero-tolerance approach towards secret society activities and have been clamping down on all organised crime activities with a heavy hand. Once in a while, you may see headlines on organised crime popping up in the news but if we were to be honest, you probably see otter gangs more than human gangs these days.
Our tour guide, Mr Alvin Chiong.
Whether you consider yourself a local history buff or can barely remember what you learned in Social Studies, Triad Trails is truly an eye-opening experience like no other. These underhanded and darker parts of our past are not always brought to light, but with them we can learn how far we’ve come as a nation.
The guides also serve as inspirations to us; that no matter our past mistakes, there is a chance for us to change and improve ourselves.
Book the tour via the Triad Trails website at $89/person for the tour with a meal. Alternatively, you can pair it with a staycation at the newly revamped Amara Singapore from $420/night for 2 with tour tickets bundled in, available for bookings before 24th November 2024.
Contact: Triad Trails website
Also, check out these organisations for volunteer opportunities or chances to provide support to ex-offenders:
Photography by Doreen Fan.
Originally published on 10th July 2021. Last updated by Kezia Tan on 25th July 2024.
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