No 18 Fried Kway Teow
If you’re on a diet, this is not the dish for you. The dark, glistening sticky tangle of flat rice noodles was fried vigorously in lard, black sauce and lashings of chilli sauce before generous servings of egg, cockles, lap cheong (Chinese dried sausage), fishcake and bean sprouts were added. The rough handling left the noodles somewhat on the short side; we almost had to eat the dish with a spoon. But there’s no denying the technical prowess: the bean sprouts were cooked to a perfect translucence with a pleasant bite, while just enough dark soy sauce was splashed in, so that the noodles weren’t as abrasively sweet as some versions we’ve had.