Old Kyoto cafes
We’ve all heard the phrase “old is gold”. If a store can stand the test of time, they’re definitely doing something right. That’s the case in Kyoto, where there are many old cafes that offer a taste of history and a nostalgic blast from the past. We’ve sussed out must-visit 9 old Kyoto cafes, including one that was established in 1930.
1. Salon de the FRANCOIS
Image adapted from: @ao.aiue
Located along the Takase River near Kiyamachi street, Salon de the FRANCOIS was established in 1934 by Mr Shoichi Tateno. The business has since been passed down to his son, Hayao, who is the current manager of the store. This cafe is surrounded by other old shophouses, and the entire street has a nostalgic atmosphere.
The store is marked by a Western-style lamp at the entrance, as well as Gothic pointed arch stained glass windows.
Second floor of the cafe
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The interior draws inspiration from the Gothic style and has been preserved since its establishment in 1934. On the first floor, the seats are fitted with light-coloured patterned cushion covers while on the second floor, the cushions are bright red.
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The cheesecake is one of Salon de the FRANCOIS’ speciality dishes. It is served with a blueberry sauce that balances out the richness of the cake with tartness. The cafe also serves other cakes, tarts, and sandwiches along with coffee, tea, and booze.
Address: 184 Sendocho, Shijo-dori, Shimogyo-dori, Shimogyo-ku, 600-8019 Kyoto
Opening hours: 10AM-10.00PM, Daily (Last order at 9.30PM)
Telephone: 075-351-4042
Website
2. Inoda Coffee Honten
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Perhaps one of the best-known cafes in Kyoto, Inoda Coffee was opened by Shichiro Inoda in 1947. By a stroke of luck, he found 15 bags of coffee beans in pristine condition stored in his residence’s warehouse after World War II. With these bags of coffee beans in tow, he decided to open a coffee shop. That one coffee shop has now multiplied into 12 stores across Japan.
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Inoda Coffee Honten – the main store – still operates from its original location, but they’ve also expanded to occupy a more modern-looking unit next door. Both units provide seating areas for guests but with slightly different vibes.
Image adapted from: @ooh_chan
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The furnishings at the two-storey older unit give it an old-school restaurant-like atmosphere. Alfresco dining that overlooks the garden is also available. Smoking is allowed in this outdoor dining area. If you’re a non-smoker, let the staff know and you’ll be led to a non-smoking area.
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With dark wine curtains, luxurious red seats, and red and white tablecloths, the newer unit maintains the restaurant-like atmosphere but with a more modern style.
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A small alley connects the two units and also leads to the washrooms. Occasionally, you’ll find birdcages lining the alley.
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Some of the most popular items on their menu include the Kyoto-style breakfast set, sandwiches, and pudding. The coffee served here is Inoda-style – with milk and sugar added in – so if you prefer your coffee black, be sure to let the staff know when ordering.
Address: 140 Doyu-cho, Sakaimachi-dori, Sanjo sagaru, Nakagyo-ku, 604-8118 Kyoto
Opening hours: 7AM-6PM, Daily
Telephone: 075-221-0507
Website
3. Maeda Coffee Muromachi Honten
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Maeda Coffee was founded in 1971. Their flagship store, Muromachi Honten, opened in 1981 in a renovated shop that originally sold kimono fabric. The chain now operates 10 stores, including one in Beijing. As coffee beans are roasted in-house, customers get to bask in the invigorating aroma whenever they visit.
Image credit: つくばみらいのダースベイダー
Compared to other trendy, Instagrammable cafes, Maeda Coffee’s interior isn’t as flashy or photogenic. From the wicker chairs to the stone pavement flooring, everything is done in an old-world style that’s faintly reminiscent of cafes in Paris.
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The cafe has both smoking and non-smoking areas. If you’re a non-smoker, be sure to inform the staff so they can arrange a seat at the non-smoking area for you.
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Their menu includes a variety of breakfast sets, making it a good choice for early birds looking for a place where they can fill their stomachs. Each set comes with a salad, drink, and a small cup of orange juice. If you’re here for lunch, try out their speciality – Spaghetti Napolitan – made from their traditional recipe. They also serve curry and sandwiches.
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Save some space for dessert as their coffee is best paired with their homemade sweets. The parfait is especially popular as the layered dessert both tastes and looks good.
Address: 236 Hashibenkei-cho, Nakagyo-ku, 604-8151 Kyoto
Opening hours: 7AM-7PM, Daily (Last order at 6.30PM)
Telephone: 075-255-2588
Website
4. Cafe Shizuka
Image credit: @niko_sanko_yonkodayo
The building that Cafe Shizuka is currently housed in was built in 1937. One look at the exterior tells you that this is an old-school kissaten (coffee shop). The cafe’s interior and menu haven’t changed much since 1937, and it’s as if time has stopped inside. It has a loyal local following of all ages and is especially crowded during breakfast.
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Cafe Shizuka can fit about 20 customers in their old-fashioned booth seats made of wood and emerald green velour cushions. The wood panelling on the walls, the floor tiles, and the furniture all feel like a blast from the past.
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You’ll also find antiques belonging to the current owner’s grandfather on display in the cafe. They add to the already overwhelming retro atmosphere.
Image adapted from: @1a38ra and @1a38ra
Two of the most popular items on the menu are the fruit sandwich and pancakes. The fruit sandwich is filled with different fruits such as strawberry, grape, and orange, depending on the season.
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Although they’ve been serving fruit sandwiches for a long time, it only became more popular recently, especially among the younger crowd.
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As for the pancakes, they are fluffy and served with both maple syrup and butter. They pair well with Cafe Shizuka’s drip-style deep roasted coffee.
Address: 164 Minamijyozenjichou, Kamigyo-ku, 602-8321 Kyoto
Opening hours: Thu – Tue 10AM-4PM (Closed on Wednesdays and selected weekdays)
Telephone: 075-461-5323
Instagram
5. Coffee Shop Unzen
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Coffee Shop Unzen is an old but gold cafe. It was founded in 1935 and just celebrated its 86th anniversary in October 2021.
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The interior of the cafe is dimly lit by vintage wall lamps that create a warm and cosy atmosphere, making you feel right at home even if it’s your first time visiting. All the seats in the cafe are reddish-brown sofa booth seats, reminiscent of 1980s diner booths.
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Towards the back of the cafe, there is a small private area that seats just four people. It’s brightened by a skylight that lets in natural light. Kitschy, colourful mosaic tiles form the flooring in this cosy seating area. You’ll also find other unique antique items such as a stained glass lamp and an old-school mini table fan.
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It would be remiss not to order Unzen’s signature item: pancakes. These thick and fluffy pancakes come in a set of two. Each piece is stamped with the words “Thank you for your kindness”. The phrase is somewhat like Coffee Shop Unzen’s slogan as you’ll also find it on their vintage cash register.
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Another popular menu item is the breakfast set, which includes toast, a boiled egg, and coffee. As the cafe is only open on Sundays and selected Saturdays, make sure to check their Facebook and Twitter accounts where they update their opening dates weekly.
Image adapted from: @6XsPu5Ja7WMokOg
Address: 724 Ayakoji Corner, Nishinotoin Dori, Shimogyo-ku, 600-8474 Kyoto
Opening hours: Sun 7AM-3PM
Telephone: 075-351-5479
6. Smart Coffee
Image credit: @qanabanana
Smart Coffee is a longstanding store well-loved by locals, especially for their breakfast fare. They have maintained the same interior over the years and continue roasting and brewing with the same type of coffee beans that they’ve been using since their establishment in 1932.
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The interior is furnished with mainly dark wood furniture. Leather cushion sofas make the space more comfortable and classy. There’s also a flight of stairs that lead up to the restaurant on the second floor.
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The restaurant on the second floor is known as Smart Lunch. Lunch is served between 11.30AM and 3PM, and the menu includes items such as hamburg steak, fried shrimp, and grilled chicken.
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The two must-try food items when visiting Smart Coffee are pancakes and egg sandwiches. Their egg sandwiches are generously filled with a silky smooth omelette nestled between thick slices of white bread.
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The breakfast food items pair well with the dark-roasted house blend coffee. The cafe also serves juice, tea, and hot chocolate, which is great if you don’t drink coffee.
Address: 537 Tenshojimaecho, Nakagyo-ku, 604-8081 Kyoto
Opening hours: Wed – Mon 8AM-7PM (Closed on Tuesdays)
Telephone: 075-231-6547
Website
7. Rokuyosha
Image credit: @smallriver___
Image credit: @smallriver___
A coffee shop by day and a bar by night, Rokuyosha is well-loved by coffee connoisseurs and musicians alike. The cafe, which opened in 1950, is literally a hidden treasure – it’s located in a basement with a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it entrance. Look out for their brownish brick-style signboard.
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Once you head down the flight of stairs and enter Rokuyosha, you’ll be greeted by a relatively narrow corridor with booth seats. The brown leather booth seats are quilted and look luxurious.
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There are also counter seats where you can watch the owner, Mr Okuno Osamu, brew your coffee up close. Rokuyosha has many different types of coffee beans of different origins. If you tell him how you usually take your coffee, he can recommend a type of bean and customise a brew for you.
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Rokuyosha is also known for its homemade doughnuts, made by Mr Okuno’s wife. The doughnut is deep-fried and has a crispy exterior, but it miraculously manages not to be too greasy. Pair this with a good, strong cup of black coffee.
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Besides doughnuts, Rokuyosha also offers cakes, bakes, and an affordable breakfast set (¥600, ~USD5.22) that consists of a boiled egg, toast, juice, and coffee.
Address: B1F 36, Daikoku-cho, Kawaramachi Sanjo-sagaru, Nakagyo-ku, 604-8031 Kyoto
Opening hours: Thu – Tue 12PM-6PM (Closed on Wednesdays)
Telephone: 075-241-3026
Website
8. CC’S
Image credit: @a_takashima
CC’S is a cake store with an unassuming storefront. From the outside, you can scarcely tell what the shop offers. CC’S, first opened in 1974, sells homemade American cakes and is currently run by third-generation owners. Look out for the blue and white striped canopy above the unit and the “OPEN” sign on the window to determine whether it’s open.
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The cafe interior is similarly rustic and simple. You’ll find wooden bench seats lined with tatami mats and cushions, and quadrant tables make full use of the space within the cafe. Despite the space-saving set-up, each table is actually quite spacious and there’s enough room for you to enjoy your cakes.
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A hexagonal-shaped fridge stands in the centre of the store and is an attraction in itself. The store’s cakes are kept in this fridge with rotating panels so you can admire and choose your cakes from it.
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The most popular cake at CC’S is the buttercream cake wrapped in a plastic film with the colours of the American flag – white, red, and blue. Besides that, they do have quite an extensive selection of cakes and sandwiches available. You can pair your cake with a cup of coffee or juice for a relaxing afternoon tea break.
Address: 182-3 Jurakumawari Nishimachi, Nakagyo-ku, 604-8402 Kyoto
Opening hours: Wed – Mon 10AM-5PM (Closed on Tuesdays)
Telephone: 075-801-4790
9. Shinshindo Cafe
Image credit: @doc_coffee113
Located across the street from the north gate of Kyoto University, Shinshindo Cafe is a place that has been well-loved by generations of students since its establishment in 1930. Besides students, you’ll also spot professors at this haunt.
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The founder, Mr Hitoshi Tsuzuki, modelled this store after a cafe that he used to frequent while he was studying in Paris. The fourth-generation owner, Satoshi Kawaguchi, now runs the cafe.
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The cafe is filled with long dark amber wood tables – which aren’t common in cafes – that provide ample space for students who want to study. These tables were specially designed by Tatsuaki Kuroda, a Japanese woodworker and lacquerware artist who was designated a Living National Treasure in 1970.
From the worn and weathered tables and chairs, you can get a sense of how popular the cafe was and still is.
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Bread and pastries are freshly baked in-house every day. Try them with a cup of coffee for the quintessential Shinshindo Cafe experience.
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One of the most popular items on their menu is the homemade curry bread set, which comprises a hearty bowl of curry served with bread, butter, salad, and coffee or tea. They also serve sandwiches, toasts, and pancakes.
Address: 88 Kitashirakawa Oibucho, Sakyo Ward, 075-701-4121 Kyoto
Opening hours: Wed – Mon 8AM-6PM (Last order at 5.45PM) (Closed on Tuesdays)
Telephone: 075-701-4121
Old cafes in Kyoto
Besides visiting only modern speciality coffee stores, you should patronise these old Kyoto cafes that continue to attract people today. Their retro decor and old-world atmosphere will take you on a nostalgia trip as you enjoy their food and drinks that have withstood the test of time.
Check out these articles for other cafes in Japan:
- Cafes in Tokyo with unique menus
- Child-friendly cafes and restaurants in Tokyo
- Speciality coffee shops in Tokyo
- Vampire cafe
- Japanese pancakes in Tokyo
- Cafes in Kyoto
Cover image adapted from (clockwise from left): @hakuplus_, @cogdayo and @fatty_master
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